Edit (09/11/11): A few of you have been kind of enough to send me some corrections to the Superbright part numbers. I've made the corrections below in italics. Thanks.
It may actually may be more because this is based on a calculated draw. Oh, and I have some foot well LEDs installed by previous owner, so that's a little draw than a stock car would see.
Well, as i see it, the practical values of LEDs in cars in general, and to 100% LEDs, are:
Does you car have any electrical issues with respect to lighting? Or, does your car experience large voltage fluctuations? If yours does, make sure you get that addressed first. Most of these LEDs can go as low as 10VDC, but if your electrical system is known to go under that, then consider when you put in LEDs that if you have to replace them because your car's electrical system killed them, the replacement costs for some of these can be relatively high. With that said, as I've worked on my car, and have tuned the car to eliminate hunting and experienced the resulting high/low voltage swings in the process, I have yet to burn out any of the LEDs in the process. So, just saying.
Note: It happened to me, and happened to others as well. The connector on the harness where these plug into has become very fragile over time. The connector will most likely break apart, as you try to remove the original flasher unit. Just make sure you remember or mark the correct pin to wire configuration when you put the new one in, on a damaged socket.
Note 2: One small advantage to having the socket break up, is that you can now use the flasher units with the ground pin on either side - again, just make sure you are hooking them up correct.
Note 2: This is a great candidate for an LED replacement. Why? At idle, as in a stop light, take your foot off and then depress the brake pedal and watch the voltage gauge. The brake lights draw a sufficient amount of power from the electrical system that you can watch the needle twitch when they are illuminated. When I went to LEDs the twitch in the gauge is barely noticeable.
Taillight assembly today, with all LEDs.
Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3610-X4: $3/each
Above is the bonnet light pulled out for a bulb replacement, it comes out easily enough with a little pull on the edges. The picture also shows the difference between "Cool Blue" and "Warm White". The former gives a more modern look, the latter looks more authentic to the original look of an incandescent bulb.
Approximately : $15/set.
Of the 15, five are for panel illumination, the rest are gauge indicators, these could be in "Cool White" or "Warm White" or just go crazy with other colors.
Note 2. Others have experimented with colors here, I find that that “cool white” is a little too blue for my preferences with respect to the vintage of the car, so I went with the “warm white” version.
Note 3. For the panel illumination, you need the LEDs to replicate the very wide light angle that an incandescent bulb has. This is because their sockets are at 90 degrees to the plane of the panel, and the light needs to fill in through the sides. The 220 degree beam version LEDs, will accomplish this task.
Approximately : $3/each
Note: You don't need a high angle beam for the indicators, since they mostly need the light from the LED to project straight ahead.
Here is a shot of my dash some years ago, with all incandescent bulbs
Here is a shot of my dash some years ago, with all incandescent bulbs.
Shown above, the AC panel, one of the indicator bulbs pulled out for reference.
EDIT: Sorry folks, either this bulb changed from when I bought it because now this is exclusively for 9V applications. See below for updated recommendations.
Cory W. has identified a possible better and more inexpensive solution here: Alternative source for E10 LED
Update, 1 month later:
So I've had 100% LEDs for over a month now, and driving every weekend with this mod. I love that the volt gauge barely moves now when I apply brakes, and when my Son was down from college, he was very surprised at how bright the brake lights were in LEDs.
There are two things though that I should note:
The amber LED bulb cluster, make the rear turn signals a reddish-orange. I think that white LED bulbs may have been better, yet they look great in front.
The new LED compatible flasher relay (as above, sourced from SuperBrightLEDs) makes the hazard and blinking function work perfectly with all LEDs, but note that it is much quieter than the stock unit (which will not make your LEDs blink). If you're playing the radio loud, or just revving the engine high, the click-click sound is not as prominent as on the original.
>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings of this site. Thanks.<<<